'BRIDAL JEWELLERY' of Spiti - A visual treat of a Hinterland

The Bridal Jewellery of Spiti

A traditional Bride of Spiti - photo credit Ajay Banyal  

A Spiti woman in the traditional dress and Jewellery - photo credit Ajay Banyal 

An innate desire of humans is to look beautiful and that’s why jewellery was invented. Surprisingly, it was not the ‘Homo sapiens’ but the ‘Neanderthals’ who first used jewels to beautify themselves around 130,000 years ago – imagine! Early on jewellery was made of shells, bones and stones but later metals took over with gold and silver becoming the preferred choice. 

Did you know that initially jewellery was worn more as amulets to ward off evil eyes and to secure garments? As most dresses were wrap around, they required securing. With time, jewels took on an ornamental quality and became immensely treasured. Men were equally enamoured, and jewels adorned both genders the world over in all cultures. 

Jewellery is a valuable archaeological source as well, signifying a lot of things— the wearer’s personality, status and wealth; the richness of their culture along with their traditional and religious beliefs. Sometimes it can tell the story of trade or geographical resources.

              

The women of Spiti                  

“I have enough jewellery,” said no woman ever! For most women, jewellery is her prized possession, not to be shared easily. So how would you feel if someone takes out her entire ‘Bridal jewellery’ and happily offers that you wear it?  And calls her relatives to help in dressing.

  Ecstatic and humbled—that’s how I felt when I visited Kaza recently, and had the pleasure of wearing Dolma Cherring’s exquisite bridal jewellery. I also learned about the beautiful customs of a lovely community – the Spiti people of Kaza. 

                  

Dolma Cherring in her beautiful traditional attire and jewellery   

Nestled amidst the high mountain ranges of Himachal, in a cold desert environment, the Spiti or Piti – as known locally – means the ‘middle land.’ Land between Tibet and India. Their culture is unique, and so is their jewellery.

Beautiful Spiti 

I am fond of collecting traditional jewellery, hence inquired about it during my recent trip to Spiti valley. As luck would have it, Kesang Rapchik (the president of the Taxi Drivers Union and our driver for our stay in Kaza) suggested that his wife could dress me up as a traditional bride. I readily agreed and what a memorable experience it turned out to be! 

With Kesang Rapchik and Dolma - at their beautiful home 

Rapchik's Aunts to help me dress up - as wearing jewellery needed assistance 

                    

Wearing the entire Bridal set of jewellery with their Shamo (cap), Rigoya (the dress) and Lingti (woven shawl)

Spiti jewellery is similar to Kinnaur, Lahaul and  Leh and is mainly made of silver with many precious and semi-precious stones – turquoise, coral and pearls. The tribal jewellery is influenced by Tibetan designs that have been preserved through ages. The pieces are  heavy and worn covering head to waist, and nothing on the feet due to climatic conditions. The Spitian women also don't pierce their nose and wear any nose jewellery. 

Mostly designed to secure the traditional dress, especially the shawls, and to cover the head and ears to protect against the cold. Interestingly the ear flaps of the head gear (Perak) were added after one of the queens of Spiti developed an ear infection and required protection from the cold winds!

Berag – the most precious item made of silver, cloth and sapphire to cover the head 

The torquise were earlier bought from Tibet and were very expensive but now artificial Torquise is also available and it reduces the cost of Berag

 

Nyilda - Sun and half moon and Medok - Flowers - parts of Berak 

Kondha – earrings- silver with torquise and coral beads 

Ghiyun– the gold pendant - with semi precious stones - the number of Ghiyun and their size and weight increases depending on the financial status of the family - quite similar to Kinnauri Jewellery

Pitsup - waist band 

Digra - Waist belt holder

Docha - a waist ornament to be tied on the waist belt (kira) above the right knee 

Jewellery holds a special place in the lives of the women of Spiti. I could feel the pride and love Dolma had for her jewellery in the way she explained them to me. There are also many customs attached with jewellery in their culture.

The head ornaments like Berag and Perak are not worn by the unmarried women. The young girls wear simple jewellery ; heavy and elaborate jewellery is only for married women. 

 In older times only ‘Khangchen’ homes (the high noble families) and not the ‘Khing Chung’ homes (the low class families) could afford the entire Berag set with real Turquoise from Tibet. Nowadays, most women that desire a full set of bridal jewellery get it made.

 The jewellery is gifted by the bride’s parents and the boy’s side do not gift jewellery to their daughters in law (though these traditions have become more relaxed now). It’s like pooling the resources in the new marriage – bride brings jewellery and boy his lands. The traditional jewellery passes from mother to the eldest daughter only.

With the traditional Shawl Lingti 

The passers by were quite amused at our photo session 

Happy in Sharing and Caring

With Reeta Rana - my companion during my Kaza stay - a police women

If a couple has more than one daughter they make new jewellery for her. The husband can add to his wife’s jewellery after marriage, which can be gifted to anyone the couple decide upon. If the couple has no daughter, then the jewellery can be gifted to either the DIL or to the nieces of the lady or the Monastery.

 Interestingly, the Spitian bride covers her face only during her wedding and never before or after. On enquiring I was told that as the groom doesn’t go to bring his bride home; hence she covers her face to be only shown to her husband on reaching her ‘sasural’ (in laws home). The Bride covers her face with Berag and hardly can see through it. Married woman wear it over her left shoulder. 

The entire jewellery set is extremely heavy (10-12 kg, costing approximately INR 12 -15 lakh in today’s value) and one wonders how the bride bears the weight during her wedding and after! The traditional jewellery is worn on all auspicious occasions, be it religious or festive. 

A bride covers her face and a married woman wears the Berag on her shoulders 

The Spitian women have simple day -to day wear jewellery as well -like Ghyool - for young girls, Chimkut -a hair ornament, Ultik - neklace made of different beads, bracelets of shells, Doo- bangles of solid silver and Surundup - silver finger rings.      

                   

Other than gold and silver no other metal is used in the Tribal jewellery of HP – which is unlike the rest of India. Probably because upper regions of Himachal had close trade ties with Tibet and the tribals had enough resources for jewellery befitting their social status. Perhaps it was also a way to invest their surplus money. 

Most of the jewellery is crafted by the two local jewellers in summer and who migrate to Kinnaur during winters. This kind of jewellery is available in Kinnaur also but most Spitians get it made in Kaza only.  

With the loving family of Rapchik and Dolma 

Personally I was delighted to dress up as a Bride again after 32 years! So fascinated I was with my bejewelled look, that I ordered some jewellery for myself and my daughters from the local jeweller. Thank you to Dolma and her aunts for all the love and affection and pampering they showered on me. More than the jewellery it is their generosity that captured my heart.