PANGI VALLEY - Land of Pangwals and Bhots AND of Glaciers and Waterfalls

Hill Tuwan Bhatori

Glaciers and Seichu Nallah 

At Hill Tuwan Bhatori

Happiness 

Pangi Guest House 

Ever since I got married and came to Himachal I have been hearing about these far flung areas of the state – shrouded in mysteries - considered to be difficult; but very beautiful. They lacked basic facilities, road connectivity and had extreme weather conditions. That’s why perhaps were not high on the tourists list as well. Lot has changed and changing since than.

Pangi Valley is one of them

Pangi basically is a sub division of Chamba district with a population of almost 25000 inhabitants, living in small villages spread across the valley, at a height of 11,000 feet upwards. Killar is its headquarter but it is not a big township. The entire region receives heavy snowfall and is a land of glaciers, waterfalls and tall trees. It is remote because it is deep in the Pir Panjal Range and can be accessed only through passes - via Keylong and Udaipur, via Saach Pass and via Kishtwar in J&K. Earlier it used to be cut off from the main land for 7-8 months in a year but now thanks to Atal Tunnel it is more accessible and is cut off only during very heavy snowfall. With the continous efforts of BRO and state PWD  the roads have reached in the entire Pangi valley and the connectivity has improved. 

The view

Pic courtsey - Internet 

With my interest in everything Himachali; I wanted to visit Pangi - so was happy to accompany my husband during his recent visit there. Despite knowing how long and tiring the journey would be, I was looking forward to this adventurous  trip.  

We went via Lahaul because Saach pass had not opened after the winters. And as soon as we started travelling ahead of Keylong the question which popped in my head was -'why people settled in such a remote and difficult area in ancient times?'- especially when the entire Himachal was and is not overly populated?

There are no authentic historical evidence about the origin of human settlement in Pangi valley; but stories are there and all of them seem to be probable. The Pangwals (Aryan descendants) - a common term for all Hindus living in Pangi (mainly Rajputs, Brahmans, Lohars etc)   – were either sent or came from Chamba and Lahaul. It is said that the Raja of Chamba used to send the miscreants of its kingdom to Pangi area - almost a Kala Pani – not expected to return to the main land. That is why the traditional cap (made of white cotton cloth) of Pangi resembles that of a prisoner and is different from rest of the Himachal. Some migrated on their own for better grazing lands and resources. The Rajputs feel that their ancestors probably came here to hide from Muslim invasions but could never travel back and then got mixed with locals. Pangi also has a sizeable population of Mongoloid origin Buddhists - called the Bhots- who probably came here to seek refuge from persecution.  They live in the higher reaches of the valley called Bhatoris - Sural Bhatori, Chasak Bhatori, Hill Tuwan Bhatori etc. – the most beautiful meadows of the valley.  

Sural and Hudan Bhatori - pic courtsey Ritika Jindal and Internet 

Once you visit the Pangi valley one can easily see that settling in this remote area must not have been a choice, but eventually must have turned into a habit and a way of life. A way of life much cherished by the locals and even some outsiders. The Pangwals and Bhots now live in harmony with the nature, with beliefs in local customs, in their close bond and are generally happy.

Now what is it that I found noticeable about Pangi–

1-      Its remoteness – it really is remote, but its remoteness creates a mystery  and retains its uniqueness

2-      Glaciers and Water falls – almost everywhere and easily accessible – a topography not common in Himachal

3-      Its serene beauty – the valley is green with tall Devdaars and other trees - unlike other high altitude areas. Also the entire region is full of rivers and nallahs adding to the beauty.

4-      Less Consumerism – hardly any big buildings, few dhabas, less plastic and garbage and thankfully not many chips packets. A traditional peaceful way of life.

5-      Happy people with regional pride – both Pangwals and Bhatoris

As soon as we travelled ahead of Udaipur the road became nonexistent with only few good patches. But what made up for the bad road was the amazing landscape - full of trees, Chandrabhaga traversing with us down the deep gorge and lots and lots of glaciers and water falls. The water falls running over the roads were exciting and scary at the same time. I longed to get down and walk over them but refrained as we were in a rush to reach Killar before the dark. (Though I did it on my way back)

            

                 

                  

On our way back while I got down to walk in the water fall - our car got stuck. Good adventure.

Finally we reached Killar - view infront of the PWD Rest House

Our stay in Pangi was quite short but full of excitement and new experiences. I totally thank our young, energetic and dynamic  Ritika Jindal (IAS)- the first lady Commissioner of the valley.  She made sure that we get to experience Pangi in all its aspects – Crafts, Culture, Cuisine and Topography. She is praiseworthy as she herself opted to serve in this difficult terrain and her work for the valley and her bond with the local officers and people is noticeable and endearing.

Warm welcome by Ritika and her collaegues 

Energetic Ritika at her residence 

While Prabodh was busy with his meetings the next day, I enjoyed dressing up in Pangwali dress and tried wearing Joji (head dress); though I could manage to retain it only for a while. It is influenced by Chamba in its jewellery (all still comes from there), the traditional chaddar (shawl) probably is influenced by the Europeans (Pangi had early European travelers) as it has check design which is not common in other parts of Himachal. The draping style is also unique. 

Wearing JoJi - the hand made head Dress

Dr Promilla (Principal G C Pangi and her students -Sunita, Shamita and Rekha - helped me dress up and also lend me their silver jewellery

Standing at the residence of Ritika Jindal 

We got to taste the local cuisine when we visited Hill Tuwan Bhatori. We also experienced the culture and hospitality of the Bhots – a relaxed way of life totally in sync with the nature. Millets are commonly consumed in different style and cooking is almost primitive with minimal use of spices retaining natural flavors.  Our meal with them was a cherishable experience with local red potatoes, various chutneys (sauces), Churu (Local cow – a mix breed between Yak and Cow) cottage cheese, local honey and other savouries. I enjoyed it to the hilt. In fact requested them to pack some red potatoes to take back home.  And if I don’t mention Pangi ki Thangi  (local hazelnuts) and Tilmil Ka Pani (mineral water from a local water source) my blog will not be complete.

               

A warm welcome by the Bhots of Hill Tuwan 

The Barley Cake (Jaun ka Sattu) - a must welcome and a staple diet

Pangi ki Thangi - local Hazelnut 

Pali - the agriculture officer and a local Bhot - making sure that we get to taste everything local

In the pic are -Thothe (pancake made from fermented Buckwheat), Mande (local dosa made from wheat)

And everything was just - Yum

Natti with the local Kids

We couldn’t travel to the most beautiful areas of Pangi – the Bhatoris especially Sural and Hudan Bhatori beacuse of weather conditions - but it is said that these places are worth visiting. Already the tent colonies are being set up during summers and more and more people, especially motor cyclists, are travelling to the valley.  

Though very difficult to live in early times – even 15 years back - now Pangwals are optimistic for future connectivity and facilities and have plans to grow exotic vegetables and fruits for outside market (the trend has already started). They are looking forward to NHPC’s Duggar (500 MW) power project and feel that better roads will bring high-end tourists. The area already has better amenities as I noticed in the local school and college during my brief visit - modern labs, solar lights, computers, internet and teachers from outside the valley. The Physics lecturer- Mr Hemendra Singh- in college is from Rajasthan and looked totally at ease with his surroundings. Told me that he is loving the climate here and intends to serve in Pangi for more years.

The Himachal Government is also spending a lot of money for trying to improve the connectivity and amenities in the Valley. 

The local school and its modern labs

With College Principal and Lecturers - extreme right is the Professor from Rajasthan 

One day in Pangi valley was not enough to get the entire feel of it (I shall surely visit it again), but I realized that Pangi has a future in tourism. If someone is looking for a truly rugged mountainous adventure, beautiful untouched treks, pristine beauty, traditional organic food, almost nomadic ways of life – almost travelling back in time – and ready to brave the topographical challenges - than the destination is Pangi. You shall experience what it is to be one with nature – its beauty and its challenges. 

The famous Cherry Bunglow

    Happy that I could finally visit Pangi. The rugged beauty of the valley, its sweet people and their traditions, the affection of the officers, and the local food  - shall remain in my  memories for ever.