DODRA and KAWAR - Mysterious Himachal

Beautiful Chanshal 

Village Dodra 

Village Kawar - pic curtsey Internet

Every state in India has certain areas which are remote and mysterious and evoke interest – interest as a visitor and as a researcher - in their history and uniqueness.

Himachal also has many such places and at the top of the list is – DODRA - KAWAR – probably the remotest and one of the most backward areas of Himachal. Till 2009 it was approachable only on foot (three days trek to the nearest road head) and still gets cut off for 3-4 months a year due to heavy snow fall on highlands. It mainly remained cut off because the road could not be constructed as the local ‘Deity’ did not give permission for it till 2006.  Administratively also it was just a tehsil and became a sub division recently. Its a tri-junction of the state of Uttrakhand and Rohru and Sangla in Himachal. The confluence is evident in its language, dress and culture.

Ever since I came to this state, I had heard about this far off land (a dreaded posting for the government servants) – and it always evoked curiosity. Last month my husband decided to visit it and I tagged along. The bonus was that we would also get to cross the ‘Gateway to Dodra - the Chanshal Pass’ - the only way to reach it by road - said to be one of the most beautiful passes of Himachal.

Historically not much is known about it; though it is said that Dodra-Kwar was given as a dowry to Raja of Bushar by the Raja of Tehri. But when and to whom is not known or recorded.  The valley falls directly on the traditional Sangla – Ruppin Pass – Naitwar trail that links the Baspa Valley of Himachal to Tons Valley of Uttarakand (a trail used by IAS probationers from Mussoorie very often) - but it still remains elusive as no historical records for this area were preserved or maybe never written; information is only available in folklores.

Now the question is  - why did people settle in such a remote area?

There are no answer to this question except a probable explanation – the nomads with sheep used to venture into this valley from Uttarakhand side during summers for want of good fodder. They also built basic wooden shelters for themselves and their herds. In the late 17^th century, the Gurkhas started spreading their wings at the expense of rulers of Uttaranchal and Himachal. Raids and wars started becoming frequent and some people started taking shelter in Ruppin valley to safeguard themselves and their cattle wealth. And probably started staying on. When Gorkhas reached this valley in early 18^th cent they got badly defeated by the locals. The people of this area still feel a strong connect with Uttarakhand and before the construction of the road it was its main support and still is in many ways. 

So - where are Dodra and Kawar and how does one travel there?

These are two villages of the Shimla district in the Ruppin valley and one has to travel via Rohru and Chanshal to reach there. As soon as one nears Rohru the scenery starts to get enchanting because of the beautiful meandering Pabbar River and apple orchards. We stopped at all tourists’ attractions on way– Khara Patthar, Giri Ganga, Mandali forest rest house and stayed the night at Sandasu – next to Pabbar

Beautiful Giri Ganga 

Next day we started early to enjoy the Chanshal Pass. As soon as we crossed Larot, the road started to get bumpy; but the scenery better. The 50 km climb to the 3750m high pass is formidable. There were trees on the way, which I had never seen before – the Mohru trees (these are lopped every three years for fodder and hence acquire an interesting shape) and the Pink Rhododendron (State flower). There were Cedar and Birch also and different shrubs.

                    

              Almost non existent road from Larot to Chanchal   

The  Mohru Trees -lopped every three years for fodder for sheep - and they take an interesting shape

Sheep on way to Dodra 

Pink Rhododendron

Slowly the trees started to disappear and meadows appeared with wild flowers - yellow and purple –with green leaves and also medicinal plants. As we approached Chanshal, I realised that indeed it is one of the most beautiful passes of Himachal with slopes ideal for skiing (though not feasible because of its accessibility).  I was totally mesmerised by the 360 degree view of meandering meadows and snow-clad mountains at a distance. No doubt it’s a much desired destination for Bikers and Hikers.  A must visit for whoever can plan

Beautiful Iris

As we start towards Ruppin Valley 

Though my heart wanted to stay more at Chanshal (dil ka kya kareein) but our destination was Dodra Kwar. So we started ahead with many cars accompanying us. It was the first time a Chief Secretary of Himachal was travelling to Dodra by road, hence a celebration for the valley.

The first distant look of Kwar and then the cluster of Dodra village brought one thought in my mind – ‘Frozen in Time’. The Kwar village is bigger (cluster of four villages) than Dodra but the style is the same. They both are 22 km apart from each other with Rupin River flowing between them.  The settlements looked well settled – actually much bigger than my expectations. The houses and temples - made of stone and wood - are very traditional, very old, and very beautiful with local wood carvings – and totally merge with their surroundings. The style is known as Kathkuni in Himachal. The ground floor is reserved for animals and stocking of wood and top floors for humans. This keeps the entire house warm during winters.  They are constructed close to each other giving a sense of security. 

Rupin River

  

Kawar Village 

One of the most beautiful pics of Kawar Village on Internet  by Himanshu Khagta

Devta Ghar at Dodra - with all kinds of skulls and horns of sacrificed animals 

A traditional house 

Temple cluster at Kawar - Pujarli 

The lifestyle in this area is steeped in primitive customs, rituals and superstitions – and folklores are held in awe. There is a definite way of doing everything and life is in total sync with nature and its rules and that is the uniqueness. The daily routine is set for men, women and children. Men mostly tend to sheep – their main occupation (though the people of this valley don’t have a tribal status) and their fields; women tend to cattle, cut grass for winters and look after house hold and family. The kids study and help in fields and household as much as they can. Women also make wool cloth for use and for sale. Everything just looks - natural and traditional – from people to roads to houses to buildings to lifestyle. What was highly noticeable was absence of consumerism.

(I have taken all the pics showcasing the lifestyle from internet as I couldn't click them myself )

Preparing for the winters - pics courtsey Internet 

My heart was completely charmed to see the locals, who had gathered in their traditional dresses to greet us. Dresses fully prepared by them from making cloth to stitching them. I also got to wear their Jhudki and Lokhuti  (traditional dress made of hand made tweed) and dance with them in their local temple. Devta culture is the dominant force here and all major decisions are through them. Also, there are strong hints of culture of Jaadu-Tona in the valley.  

At Dodra 

At Kawar 

 

Wearing Judki and Lokhuti 

                  

                                     Natti with sweet locals at Dodra                               

I was happy to see that our lunch was all traditional dishes made of magical millets, organic vegetables, local ghee and honey served with lots of affection and pride. Amarnath (chollai) is a staple crop and diet along with rajma, buckwheat, barley, peas, bathu, mandwa, ogla, chavra, local rice and maize, and phapra (used for distilling local liquor). Meat (especially dried meat) is a delicacy though many in the valley are becoming vegetarians now due to the influence of Beas Dera (religious organisation) in Punjab. 

                                  Amarnath being cultivated - the magical millet 

                    With apple crop - Pic courtesy Internet 

My time in Ruppin valley was short, but I could still feel a sense of peace in their day to day living with their surroundings. Despite the road being constructed and less snowfall – the people of Dodra-Kwar do not travel much and are mostly happy with their valley. And why not after all what do most humans want in life – peace, good health, happy relations, closeness to nature and simple lifestyle – and they have it all. 

The area is remote for sure but I will not call it mysterious as people are simple and lead a satisfied life. Though, higher education and advanced medical facilities are still an issue and are only available outside the valley. It is indeed backwards but mainly because of its geographical isolation for so long though the governemnt is trying to bring in many facilities now. But what is noticeable and progressive about them is their approach towards life – they are in sync with nature, are particular about their traditions and respect their relationships. 

If one wants to experience and learn lessons in how to live life organically - then Dodra-Kwar should be the destination. 

(Special Thanks to all the inputs of the local officers and my colleague at Rampur College - Bharat Khepan (a local from Kawar) and also the writings of Himanshu Khagta and others on Internet)